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ArtMode

Le soulier sur mesure, profession bottier

Delos9012Les chaussures comme tous les vêtements et accessoires de mode sont un moyen de se distinguer ou au contraire de ressembler aux personnes qui nous entourent. C’est une manière de montrer notre style de vie, nos préférences en terme de style vestimentaire.
Autrefois, toutes les chaussures étaient fabriquées par le bottier. Il fabriquait donc des chaussures sur mesure en fonction de la taille des pieds.
De nos jours, le sur-mesure répond au besoin d’une nouvelle clientèle lasse d’un prêt-à porter banalisé et à la recherche de tenues plus personnalisées, voire d’exception.

Voici un excellent reportage diffusé sur Youtube (auteur : UpRurale8409). Il s’agit de l’interview de Sylvain Couturier, bottier-cordonnier à Marseille. Ces vidéos nous expliquent, le processus de fabrication et de montage de souliers sur mesure (bespoke).
De l’artisanat qui tend à devenir de l’art.

Les outils du bottier-cordonnier

Présentation du bottier-cordonnier Sylvain Couturier

Essayage du client et prise des mesures

Adaptation de la forme à monter

Dessin du volume

Les gabarits de la tige

Les gabarits de la doublure

La paire d’essayage (1ère partie)

La paire d’essayage (2e partie)

Découpe de la doublure

Assemblage de la doublure et de la tige

La première de montage

Tirage sur forme

La couture de la trépointe

Le Semelage

Remplissage Cambrion et couche-point

Le montage du Talon

La mise en place de la première de propreté, finitions. La paire de souliers est fin prête !

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