Les chaussures comme tous les vêtements et accessoires de mode sont un moyen de se distinguer ou au contraire de ressembler aux personnes qui nous entourent. C’est une manière de montrer notre style de vie, nos préférences en terme de style vestimentaire.
Autrefois, toutes les chaussures étaient fabriquées par le bottier. Il fabriquait donc des chaussures sur mesure en fonction de la taille des pieds.
De nos jours, le sur-mesure répond au besoin d’une nouvelle clientèle lasse d’un prêt-à porter banalisé et à la recherche de tenues plus personnalisées, voire d’exception.
Voici un excellent reportage diffusé sur Youtube (auteur : UpRurale8409). Il s’agit de l’interview de Sylvain Couturier, bottier-cordonnier à Marseille. Ces vidéos nous expliquent, le processus de fabrication et de montage de souliers sur mesure (bespoke).
De l’artisanat qui tend à devenir de l’art.
Les outils du bottier-cordonnier
Présentation du bottier-cordonnier Sylvain Couturier
Essayage du client et prise des mesures
Adaptation de la forme à monter
Dessin du volume
Les gabarits de la tige
Les gabarits de la doublure
La paire d’essayage (1ère partie)
La paire d’essayage (2e partie)
Découpe de la doublure
Assemblage de la doublure et de la tige
La première de montage
Tirage sur forme
La couture de la trépointe
Remplissage Cambrion et couche-point
Le montage du Talon
La mise en place de la première de propreté, finitions. La paire de souliers est fin prête !
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