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Mediapart s’habille en BATA

Delos9012
Mediapart a fustigé un conseiller du Président, amoureux de beaux souliers. Le portrait dressé, commence par cette anecdote :

« La première fois que David Ysebaert a ciré les chaussures d’Aquilino Morelle, c’était au Bon marché, dans le VIIe arrondissement de Paris. Il lui a laissé sa carte. Et quelques semaines plus tard, raconte le cireur, « une femme, probablement sa secrétaire, m’a appelé pour prendre rendez-vous ». Au Palais même. Depuis, tous les deux mois environ, « le temps de garantie pour un glaçage », il revient à l’Élysée s’occuper des souliers du conseiller politique de François Hollande, également directeur de sa communication. « Aquilino Morelle a 30 paires de souliers de luxe faites sur-mesure, pour son pied qui a une forme particulière. Des Davison, des Weston…Des chaussures de plein cuir … »

Cette description montre que, soit le « cireur », soit le journaliste de Mediapart, ont une méconnaissance du monde des souliers.
Tout d’abord, on préférera utiliser le terme de souliers, pour se référer à l’excellence du travail d’artisanat des bons chausseurs. En effet, les beaux souliers c’est avant tout un travail d’artisanat qui peut rejoindre le monde de l’art. Les matières utilisés, « le plein cuir » font survivre quelques tanneries françaises. Les Tanneries du Puy demeurent le plus gros tanneur de veau en France, avec environ 1 000 peaux traitées par jour. Le secteur est surtout concurrentiel à l’étranger et particulièrement en Italie. En France, il ne reste que six tanneries spécialisées dans le cuir de veau. La qualité du tannage est primordiale pour le produit final : un bon cuir a une tenue dans le temps. Une paire de chaussures haut de gamme est donc faite pour durer et va à l’encontre de l’obsolescence programmée, pourtant de mise dans de nombreux secteurs et notamment la grande distribution.
Pour l’entretien des souliers, c’est la règle d’or de “1,2,3”: 1 jour aux pieds, 2 jours sur embauchoirs dans le placard, et un cirage tous les trois jours d’usage, soit en moyenne tous les 9 jours. Il ne faut pas confondre cirage et glaçage. Le glaçage est une technique de lustrage toute particulière réservée aux passionnés. Un beau glaçage peut nécessiter plus de 30 minutes à un glaceur averti. Le glaçage consiste à répéter un cycle de deux phases : une première avec pâte et une seconde avec eau. La répétition de ces cycles engendrera la cristallisation des particules de cires pour obtenir une surface aussi lisse qu’un miroir.
Vous comprendrez aussi que comme il s’agit d’une cristallisation, autrement dit une solidification, vous ne devez glacer que les parties de la chaussure que ne subissent pas de contrainte/flexion : soit les bouts durs et les contreforts. Entretenir et soigner ses souliers demande donc du temps.
Quelles sont les marques de beaux souliers? Certainement pas Davison! Weston est positionné dans le haut de gamme du prêt à porter. L’entreprise de Limoges ne manque pas d’atouts exceptionnels comme celui, unique au monde, de posséder deux tanneries, l’une pour les cuirs des semelles et l’autre (au Puy en Velay, rachetée au bord de la faillite en 2011) pour les tiges. Du bon « Made in France ».
Pour le très haut de gamme en PAP on trouve les marques anglaises LOBB ( racheté par Hermès), Edward Green, Gaziano & Girling … en France Corthay, Berluti (fabrique en Italie) , Aubercy (fabrique en Italie) …
Dans les propos du « cireur » on remarque le terme « sur mesure ». C’est bien sûr un terme impropre; si ces grandes marques proposent le sur mesure, leur modèles sont du prêt à porter qui existe en plusieurs largeurs.
La « Mesure »! L’aboutissement d’un parcours, l’ultime échelon sur l’échelle de valeurs des beaux souliers.
De la forme à monter qui vous sera exclusive, au choix des peausseries utilisées, en passant par le « dessin » de la tige, tout tendra à faire de votre soulier une pièce unique, et précieuse. Précieuse surtout par la qualité et la précision avec lesquelles elle sera exécutée. Le maitre bottier après avoir pris vos mesures, établira une forme en bois personnalisée, une première paire d’essayage avant la construction de la paire définitive. Mais là, il faut compter environ 3000 euros et de 4 à 6 mois d’attente.
Pour les fameuses Davison sur-mesure de plein cuir( Marque reprise par tous les journaliste français) le prix de vente en boutique est de 79 € TTC.

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