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Les lunettes de Pulvar et le web


Depuis plusieurs semaines, la monture d’Audrey Pulvar, la directrice éditoriale des Inrocks est au coeur d’une polémique qui ne désenfle pas. Le magazine Tecknikart a été le premier à évoquer un prix astronomique. Selon ses informations, le modèle en écaille de tortue aurait coûté 12 000 euros.

Selon le «Canard enchaîné» de ce mercredi, les lunettes de la présentatrice de D8 coûteraient finalement… 15 000 euros.
Relayé par les réseaux sociaux, cette information devient un buzz, et bien sûr le café du commerce numérique commente sans s’informer.

La Maison Bonnet:

Cet artisan français de haute lunetterie a déjà crée des montures sur mesure pour Yves Saint Laurent, Jacques Chirac, Jean Gabin, François Mitterrand et même Jackie Kennedy-Onassis. Personne alors ne s’est inquiété du prix de ces lunettes.
L’abbé Pierre portait, lui aussi, une paire de lunettes de la maison Bonnet. Personne n’ reproché à l’Abbé de défendre les pauvres avec de telles lunettes.

Un savoir faire français

Dans cette époque de délocalisation, voici un fabricant français qui préserve une tradition d’art. Héritiers d’un savoir-faire transmis de père en fils, les frères Bonnet défendent la tradition de la lunetterie sur mesure fabriquée à la main. Déjà en 1950, leur grand-père Robert tournait le dos à l’industrie naissante des grands opticiens pour lui préférer les techniques apprises de son père Alfred dans les manufactures du Jura. La lunette devait être une oeuvre d’art, un objet unique. Tout est fabriqué à la main pendant trois mois à l’atelier de Sens.

Le prix

Soucieux de satisfaire une clientèle plus jeune et branchée, les frères Bonnet proposent aujourd’hui une gamme moins chère en acétate et en corne. Coté prix, c’est environ 650 euros pour l’acétate, 950 euros pour de la corne, et de 3000 à 30000 euros pour l’écaille de tortue. Il est possible que les montures de Pulvar coutent un peu plus de 10000 euros mais ce n’est pas certain.

L’écaille de tortues

l’écaille de tortue n’est pas un matériau interdit mais réglementé. On ne tue pas des tortues pour l’écaille. On récupère les écailles des tortues mortes. Actuellement, les tortues en voie de disparition sont officiellement protégées (convention de Washington 1973). Il subsiste des stocks d’écailles, contrôlés, permettant encore la fabrication de montures et d’autres articles de luxe.
L’écaille de tortue est une matière noble et vivante, naturelle et en même temps sophistiquée, elle est riche d’infinis reflets qui vont du brun foncé au blond, atteignant parfois des tons de miel qui lui donnent la transparence du verre. Elle doit sa réputation tant à ses qualités esthétiques qu’à ses multiples possibilités de transformation qui ont permis de l’utiliser aussi bien dans l’art décoratif que pour les objets usuels de la vie quotidienne. L’extrême légèreté de l’écaille en fait le produit privilégié des lunetiers. Une monture de lunettes en écaille ne pèse en effet pas plus de 16 g, ne glisse pas et est totalement anallergique.

 

Boutique : Passage des Deux-Pavillons, 5, rue des Petits-Champs, Paris 1er. www.maisonbonnet.com

35 comments
  1. Marcelle Riveron

    Merci pour ces infos. En fait, j’adore des lunettes qu’Audrey porte! J’imagine qu’il y a une lunetterie à Québec qui vend des lunettes similaires. Avez-vous des suggestions?

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